So as promised, this is going to be a nerdy post. After a much earlier start (and with less to and fro to get things we’d forgotten) we went to one of the most recognisable and impressive sights in the Czech Republic: Prague Castle. This monolith sits proud over the old city and the Jewish quarter, and it’s easy to see why this was chosen by the first dukes of Bohemia as their seat of power. The view is simply breathtaking and extends for kilometres all around. Of course because it’s so famous the first obstacle that greeted us were the hordes of visitors, both in the massive tour groups and the countless smaller groups of normal visitors.
The first site we visited was the great bell tower on the st. Vitus cathedral. It looked big on the outside to begin with, but it did not prepare us for the 56 metre climb up to the top. The information board said it was 287 steps, and the dead sensation in my legs would agree with that. It was truly worth it though, because the view that greeted us was breathtaking. I cannot accurately depict the wonder of seeing most of Prague from this tower, but it was definitely a sight that blew me away. So much so that I was reluctant to go back down again.
For the rest of the day, we took the shorter visit ticket to see the more important sites around the castle. The ticket seller was not amused with our attempts to by student tickets (with an out of date card and my inability to remember my age), but he looked a lot like Pewdiepie, so I didn’t mind more gruff mannerisms. From there we visited the inside of st. Vitus cathedral, which was a beautiful display of catholic imagery and gothic architecture. The stained glasses windows were especially interesting, because they used smaller fragments of coloured glass than those found in England. This made the images very colourful and finer in detail, almost like a water colour painting.
In contrast, they royal palace was a more sombre but equally impressive affair. Everything from the state hall to the records room was very interesting, and I could feel the weight of history about the place. The most significant part was however not a room or a book, but in fact a window. Why was this window so important? Simply because in the early 17th century three pro-Hapsburg ministers were thrown though this window by revolting Bohemian aristocrats. Surprisingly all the men survived, and this was the spark that started the thirty years war. It is amazing to think that such a long and brutal conflict was start by a defenestration, but compared to say how the First World War was started it is hardly surprising.
The last parts of our visit was to the basilica of st. George and the golden lane. The basilica was pleasant enough but not quite as amazing as the cathedral, but the Golden lane was full of wonderful things. First a long display of medieval armour and weapons which I drooled over for ages, with everything from roman and Greek helmets to Hussar cavalry helmets and a selection of armour and shields in between. Then a torture chamber with many interesting and brutal ways of gaining information or confessions from a prisoner. Some of the ways in which our ancestors contrived to inflict pain made me wince openly.
The golden lane itself was a very sweet selection of tiny houses which at first housed various servants to the castle then many famous Czechs, including Kafka for about a year of his life. Apparently self-induced solitude is a great way to produce excellent literature. A big contrast from the Daliborka Tower, a defensive turret turned jail cell for enemies of the regime. One thing is certain, it was not a good idea to fall afoul of the authorities in Bohemia.
So overall today was a fantastic experience. I didn’t quite know what to expect when I arrived at the castle and I left extremely happy and satisfied. For history enthusiasts it is an absolute must, and for more normal (hah) people it is still a very educational and beautiful experience. I’m not sure what is going to happen tomorrow, but so far I have had nothing but good experiences in Prague, so hopefully these continue. Until next time!